Sunday, February 12, 2006
New Mexico Sunset from a moving truck
Driving from California to New Mexico gave me a sense of the ruggedness of the land. Vast deserted dry plains between Barstow and Flagstaff gave way to rocks formation dotted landscape between Kingman & Gallup. Along the way were small depressed towns and Native American reservations. Why were there towns along 40? What do people do for a living? Why did the Native American's get this dry barren land? These are all of the things that I thought about on the drive.
Kaibob trail, Grand Canyon
Since it was December and there was no chance of us dying from sun exposure, (If you've been on the Kaibob trail then you will probably remember all of the warning signs about death due to heat exposure), we decided to take the Kaibob trail down to the canyon and hike up the Bright Angel trail back to the top. The trail is approximately 15 miles and it took us about 8 hours to complete. After hiking about 20% down the trail, we made the decision to complete the 15 mile loop. To make up time, we ran the remainder of the trail. It was not difficult to do since the trail was steep. In fact, I was happy that we made the decision because I was not looking forward to climbing out. I sympathized with the tired Mules climbing up the trail.
Colorado River from the South Rim
The world is her oyster
EAL was very happy on our trip to the Grand Canyon. The trip was a long time coming. We had tried the trip a few years before but our RV broke down in lovely Ontario, CA (where the cows smell more than the people). If you go to the Grand Canyon we recommend going during the off season. We went in December and according to the rangers this is the best season to come. There are relatively few tourists and the weather is comfortable (compared to the 110 degrees during the summer months). We lucked out on the weather. We wore shorts everyday and there was no ice on the trails.
EAL at Bandalier
During our trip to New Mexico there were a few places that we wanted to visit. Cliff dwellings was near the top. In California, we do not get the sense of our Native American history, do to the lack of Native American remains and dwellings. We were not dissapointed with a visit to Bandalier State park. The park is located at the site of a Native American cliff dwelling village. We were able to climb wooden ladders into the living quarters, caves. Inside we could see the blackened ceiling from the fires and grinding stones. We also saw many drawings etched intoEAL at Bandalier the rocks. The location seemed ideal for a village. There was a water source nearby and I can imagine plentiful game to kill. The location was secluded and difficult for the Apaches as well as the encroching white man to find them.
Wonderful Sedona
Me with Sedona in the background
Beautiful Sedona. I wish we had more than an afternoon and a morning there. The earth tone red softened the look and the shape of the mesas and rocks. It absorbed the glare from the sun and made the valley ethereal.
My expectations of Sedona was that I would feel the vortex. What I did feel twice at our camp site, was a jolt of the ground, similar to the start of a slip fault earth quake. I ignored the first jolt. I thought it was my excitement of Sedona getting the best of me. The second jolt, I kept quiet and asked EAL about later. Yes, she had felt something at the camp site as well but neither of us thought it could have been the vortex.We spent Christmas in Sedona and ate dinner at the Alien Cafe, a 50's retro looking cafe with pictures of Alien siteings from around the worlds. It's a decent restauarant and I would recommend it for typical american fare.
Unhappy Cowboy and Unhappy Mules
The cowboy and the mules did not appear to be happy. I think the cowboy was sleeping and the mules were sweating from climbing the steep Kaibob trail. The mules carry provisions for hikers and others who ride the mules and camp in the canyon, near the Colorado River. I would rather hike the trail. Ridding on a mule for more than 5 minutes is probably not very comfortable.
If you like mules, then I recommend going to Mule Days in Bishop, CA http://www.muledays.org/ . Hi Trisha, Matt, and Wyatt! See hundreds of mules & donkeys marching in the Mule Days parade, see 20 mule teams in competition, & meet Action Jackson (http://animalscience.ucdavis.edu/highlights/1996-Fall/fall1996_12.htm).
Working Mules
These mules appeared to be hot (because they were sweating) and I can't imagine too keen on hiking up the steep Kaibob trail. We took the high side of the trail and waited for them to pass . They traveled at a steady pace and you could hear their hoofs pass over the rocks in the distance. I read that the mules are kept at a certain distance between each other so that they can't bite the hind of the mule in front. I would not want to ride a mule in the canyon. It does not seem like a comfortable ride and it seems like a long fall from a top of a mule. Another interesting thing I saw...the mules sleeping in the coral at the top of the Kaibob trail were laid out fast asleep. They didn't move a muscle and I wondered if they were dead. I think they were very tired.
Arizona condor
We saw a pair of Condors hunting in the Canyon. I noticed one from far away and guessed that it was a Condor. We passed a cowboy leading tourists on mules and he confirmed my guess. He told us that if we were lucky, we could watch the condor catch a mouse or other prey. We were not that lucky. We could see the tags on the Condor's wing and could also hear the sound of the wings flapping. I'm not a bird watcher but I was truly amazed at the size and the grace of the Condor.
Mules climbing out of the Grand Canyon via the Kaibab Trail
We could hear the sounds of the mule’s hooves pace evenly over the rocks as we descended into the canyon towards the
Suspension bridge in the Grand Canyon
There are two suspension bridges at the bottom of the GrandCanyon where the Kaibob and Bright Angel trail (on the south side of the canyon) end. The mules will not cross this suspension bridge since they are able to see the rushing river beneath the bridge. Crossing to the south side of the river is Phantom Ranch, where there are camp sites and cabins that you can rent. There is also a store (we did not see it). It's common for people who raft the river to stop and buy snacks at the store.
Suspension bridge in the Grand Canyon
Suspension bridge in the Grand Canyon
We met a man who looked and dressed like Santa Clause on a break from delivering packages. I kid you not, this man had grey hair and a beard to match. He was also wearing red Long Johns. He told us that the suspension bridge was created by Native Americans, hired by the National Parks. Apparently, a tribe of Native Americans have some rights to the land in the
Camping in Sedona
EAL Kaibob Trail
We were very fortunate to have great weather during our trip. This picture was taken on December 24th and we were in shorts. It was fairly cold at the trail head and I thought that we had made a mistake to wear our shorts. But as we moved into th sun it turned warm. The ranger told us that the year before, there was ice on the trail.
Cave dwelling in Bandelier
Big Mountain Sheep
The first day that we arrived at the